This page will be updated shortly...we are a little behind due to a lack of internet accessibility on the road.
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A now-and-then chronicle of our great adventure!
OK, Zion is cool, but Bryce Canyon is UNBELIEVABLE!!!! Everything seemed unbelievable today, including th that the temperature this morning registered 95 degrees and by nightfall it was just barely 50 degrees. When the elevation gets near 10,000 feet above sea level, 50 degrees seems sooo much colder! We didn't think it could get better than Zion, but we had a sneaking suspicion, based on all those who urged us to see Bryce, that Bryce just might be more fabulous.
The pièce de résistance of this 37-mile round-trip drive are the Hoodoos which are thousands of delicately carved spires that rise in brilliant color from the amphitheaters of Bryce. Millions of years of wind, water and geologic mayhem have shaped and etched the pink cliffs. Doesn't seem fair that when my face is exposed to the elements that it only gets craggier! The Hoodoos got their name because for hundred of years, the Blackfoot Indians believed that this amazing place was sacred and the home of spirits.
This page is devoted to all those who lost their lives and to those who lost their loved ones on September 11, 2001. Today is the five year anniversary and not a moment goes by when I don't think of my friends that lost their lives at The World Trade Center and American Flight 77 on that dreadful day.
Arriving into the cacophony of Las Vegas after the serenity of Newport Beach took a bit getting used to. Since the cardiology symposium Tom was covering was at the Bellagio, we were delighted to learn that our accommodations were there as well, especially since the meetings started at 7 a.m.
The Bellagio is known for its dancing fountains set to music, grandiose swimming pools, famous restaurants (Cirque, Prime and Michael Mina), as well as Cirque de Soleil's water extravaganza "O". Our first night in Vegas we settled on the more casual restaurant Fix because Thea had read about their chicken wings. We shared a batch of wings, some fries and a beer and $30 later were quite disappointed. However, in all fairness, we believe no other wings will ever compare to Clyde's in DC.
We walked the strip through Paris, Monte Carlo, New York, and Venice. Who knew you could be in so many cities in one night!
We owe a big thanks to Tom's Mom for rummaging through the boxes in her basement to find and then ship Tom attire appropriate for the conference. Remember, we are still using the clothes from the one suitcase we packed back in July.
Since I'm not a gambler and it was too hot to laze around the pool (well, one day maybe) and shopping was not an option as our car was filled to the sunroof, I was thrilled to find I could sit in on the conference. I sat in awe as dozens of the world's top cardiovascular surgeons discussed break through procedures for heart surgery in addition to the technical and moral significance of it all. The FDA spoke to the difficulty of getting new technology passed and surgeons performed live surgeries via satellite form top hospitals around North America. I normally flinch at the sight of a scrape on the knee but I was entranced as I viewed these doctors perform life saving surgeries as they do each and every day.
As our days came to a close in charming Newport Beach, we came to a few conclusions and that was mostly that we weren't cut out for LA. More so than ever we realized that open space and short commutes were always going to be on our priority list in order for us to call a place home. We might not have spent as much time as we should have exploring the West Coast, but we also decided to take the freedom that we had at this moment of being completely unencumbered (no rent, utilities or houseplants) to continue exploring the USA.
For the past several months Tom (who graduated from college pre-med way back when), has been assisting with medical research for a start-up Internet company called cvPipeline.com. This new online database solution keeps up to date with emerging products and companies in the fast changing CardioVascular (CV) market.
Knowing we were going to travel more, we realized that Tom's good Ol' Chevy Blazer, as great as it was getting us out west, was just not going to make the 4,000+ miles we planned to travel. So, sadly we sold it to a local dealer. Of course, we then realized that all that we arrived with in California two months earlier was not going to fit into my BMW. We found ourselves once again purging stuff from our lives and packing more boxes to ship back to Tom's Mom's basement.
We took a final tour of the neighborhood that we had called home the past two months, packed up our car, and headed north east on Route 15 for Las Vegas.
They say that the Dog Days of Summer are in August. So in honor of this saying, we have pictured Tank on this last day of August.
Tank's owner is one of Thea's best friends from college who also happens to be the owner of a prestigious law firm in Florida. Yes, Tank is one handsome canine, but it is the humorous musings of his two-legged Mom that continues to be one of the reasons I cherish her as a friend. I have copied her email to me below, I'll keep her name anonymous so as not to let her everyone know she's a little loco!
"Thea, I have attached some pictures of Tank (my baby). Maybe he could make the blog? You could pretend you ran into him in LA - he is a rising star, you know. Tank has had his photo in Water’s Edge magazine, and recently won the “dog days of summer” photo contest in the Jacksonville local paper! Chris says I’m “obsessed.” I always wanted to be a Hollywood “mom” – he is my ticket!"
We've been enjoying each others company exclusively, but we were really looking forward to this evening as we were going to visit Thea's college friend Doug Van Riper (aka Ripper) and his lovely wife Jan and two adorable daughters Michelle and Heather. They live in Rancho Palos Verdes (known to locals as PV) which is is a quiet, affluent suburb of Los Angeles about an hour north of Newport Beach. Sitting atop the bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, PV is well known for its spectacular views of the Pacific and Catalina Island, but its most notorious geographic feature is the continuous landslide at Portuguese Bend. Houses literally are built on wheels to go with the flow.
When Doug said we were going to the Beach Club for dinner, we had no idea how spectacular it would be. The "club" is simply one of the most pristine stretches of beach we have ever seen and there isn't any club house- just fire pits, picnic tables, and palapas (palm-thatched umbrellas and our new word for the day!). In California, hardly any shoreline is allowed to be privatized (which makes owners of the million dollar homes in places like Malibu particularly irate), but this little stretch is in fact private and with only 100+ members it's even more exclusive. Jan and the girls had the routine down perfectly...within minutes cotton tablecloths, non-breakable wine glasses, napkins, salad fixings and sushi appeared. Doug had the fire pit stoked to cook the chicken and the bottle of wine was uncorked this is also one of the only places you can drink on the beach:-). As we watched the massive orange sun set on the ocean and then later the moonbeams dancing on the waves, we felt like we could have been in Greece or the Turks & Caicos. It was totally awesome. The perfect finish to the evening was roasting S'mores on the glowing embers.
We also learned about two other landmarks of Rancho Palos Verdes-the Trump National Golf Course at Ocean Trails a somewhat ill-starred golf development at first (the course made national news when the three holes slid into the ocean in 1999) but in January 2006, it opened with 18 holes and a name change after Donald Trump invested millions building up the property and unfortunately gilding everything he touched. The locals are surprised he didn't gold leaf the greens.
California
One week and 2,684 glorious miles were behind us. The last leg of the trip through the Mojave Desert was intense. Not only was the temperature over 110 degrees but we soon realized that we were running on empty and there wasn't a gas station within 100 miles. We had to close the windows and kill the A/C to conserve gas. Thea swore she lost five pounds in the Mojave Sauna! Tom’s Blazer also lost a few things…the tires literally melted from the intense heat. We rolled into Ludlow on fumes and we fumed about the price of gas (now $3.56 per gallon).
Before we left DC we knew we had a place to stay for awhile once we arrived in LA—a house in the Hollywood Hills that belonged to a friend of ours Mom who recently passed away. We arrived at dusk to the very, very, very (did we say very?) old house. But this 1922 fixer upper had most of the essentials...a bed, bath, and kitchen; however in addition to no A/C, we soon realized there was no cell reception, no wireless Internet,and NO TV. Without one of those comforts we could survive, but without all four we went into a slight state of apoplexy! After driving the last 446 miles and realizing we had reached our final destination we were suddenly overcome by exhaustion. We were asleep by 8 p.m.
We found the little town of Flagstaff to be welcoming and enjoyed pizza in the town's Heritage Square at dusk watching “Batman Begins” on a huge outdoor screen with the denizens of Northern Arizona University students who rule the town. Ironically, the server at Alpine pizza was home on summer break from George Mason U, so we had fun chatting up DC with him.
In some ways, Old Town Flagstaff reminded us so much of Georgetown-dozens of locally owned bars and restaurants, historic buildings, and a small community feel. But where it differs is that it is surrounded by the largest pine forest in North America. The other difference is that everyone was attired in Eddie Bauer-styled clothing vs suit and ties.
The only mistake we really made was searching for a hotel on a weekend night so near the Grand Canyon. We ended up at in a place that makes the Bates Motel look like a five star destination.
We crossed the Continental Divide and gasped at the beauty of Arizona. Nature really got it right. The Petrified Forest and Painted Dessert were mind blowing.
We were so glad we detoured onto the 27-mile drive for this National Treasure. In addition to the beautiful desert scenery the National Park also contains a rich collection of archaeological remains from centuries of human occupation. Chief among these are the remarkable petroglyphs—figures carved into the dark "desert varnish" which covers the sandstone.
Detail of some of the petroglyphs can be seen in the picture on the left. Most striking is the large wading bird--an avocet, perhaps--pictured just to the left of center. It isn't known whether the artist depicted a frog, or a person, in the bird's mouth. These ancient drawings date from the 1100's and are some of best examples of petroglyphs found in the southwestern United States. They were probably carved by the Anasazi Indians. We found ourselves, once again, in awe of those who pioneered this land so long ago.
After a bountiful complimentary breakfast in handsome lobby we explored the town, once again taken with the charm of the one-of-a-kind boutiques and galleries. We looked for Julia Roberts and the twins, but to no avail!
Fully energized, we couldn't wait to explore the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. Having only spent two days in New Mexico it was easy to understand why it, and Santa Fe especially, became O'Keeffe's adopted home. Amazingly, I learned that her happiest years were in NM when she was in her 40's, 50's and 60's. Hmmmmmmm.
We browsed through the myriad galleries brimming with spectacular and colorful art, so many depicting the intoxicating landscape. The good thing about packing hundreds of boxes is that it deterred both of us from wanting to purchase even the smallest token as a memento.
As we glimpsed remnants of the Santa Fe Trail the irony wasn't lost on us that the trail was once used by the stagecoaches and pioneers heading to California seeking a new adventure.
The Native American statue in front of the St Francis Cathedral was particularly enchanting.By nightfall we navigated into New Mexico. When we saw signs leading to Tucumcari, we knew that's where we would rest for the night. As we cruised into town, Tom attempted to sing Little Feat's 1971 song, "Willin' "
I've been from Tuscon to Tucumcari,Driven every kind of rig that's ever been made
Now I driven the back roads so I wouldn't get weighed
And if you give me: weed, whites, and wine
and you show me a sign
I'll be willin', to be movin'
We could tell from the plethora of roadside motels with the half flickering neon signs that in it's heyday Tucumcari probably rocked, but that's when Route 66 paved the way west and went right through the town. But, Route 40 replaced the storied highway, veering traffic around the little town and Tucumcari quickly fell into a tired and sad state. The only things we encountered were the tumbleweeds. However, it did permit us to have our pick ofcheap spots to hang our hats for the night. Our favorite was the Buckaroo Motel for $20 buckaroos a night!
Tucumcari is named for the scenic flattop Tucumcari Mountains acting as a background for the city. The meaning of the word Tucumcari is a loose derivation of a Comanche word for "lookout."
Factoid: Tucumcari's median household income: $22,560; the median house value: $48,900. Once again we were reminded that it's not only the miles that are separating us from DC!